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BITE Studios ventured beyond its usual bailiwick for spring to experiment with texture, volume, and architectural shapes, with varying success. This is a conscious move for the minimalist designers behind the label: “With really considered fashion detailing, we are establishing some BITE signatures,” said co-founder Verokina Kant on a recent call. Beautifully cut trousers are one of the brand’s calling cards. Nudie is an investor in the company, and this season’s white denim was produced in cooperation with the jeans experts. The same kicky shape and fit was also applied to dress pants, some with higher waists.
One of the heroes of the collection is a shimmering pea-silk evening suit that speaks to the brand’s USP. BITE is an acronym for “By Independent Thinkers for Environmental Progress” and working with responsible materials, said Kant, “is really the core of BITE; that’s why we exist and what we’re trying to achieve is to push the industry in a more sustainable direction via working with amazing organic textiles.” The French artisan Violaine Buet, who works with hand-harvested seaweed, contributed some of the accessories.
Some of the material choices here resulted in pieces that felt heavy for the season (see the blazer with asymmetric lapels), especially in comparison to the airier and more effortless fall offering. More compelling was a sort of panniered tunic and pants ensemble that would make an intriguing evening option. “What we like to do when we make a dress is almost think about it as a suit,” noted Kant. A dress with a dramatic front drape, a house classic of sorts, was made with one piece of fabric. It was impressive, but world’s apart from much of the rest of the collection, which lacked a sense of coherence overall. Still, it’s refreshing to see that the team has chosen not to play it safe.
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